One biomass, two categories: BERGALUXE™ and BERGALUXE™ OC at the 36th IFSCC Congress

At the IFSCC Congress 2026, Verel presents BERGALUXE™ and BERGALUXE™ OC: two active ingredients from bergamot leaves for skincare and oral care, supported by in vitro and in vivo data.

How much value can be extracted from a single plant biomass? This is the question behind the study that Verel is bringing to the 36th Congress of the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) in Perth, Australia, from September 28 to October 1, 2026. The theme of this year's congress is "Solving the Sustainable Beauty Equation."

The answer is a cosmetic active ingredient for two industrial categories that rarely intersect: skincare and oral care. Both are derived from bergamot leaves. For product managers, R&D teams, and buyers working across multiple lines, this case study demonstrates what changes when ingredient development begins with a comprehensive characterization of the raw material.

What Verel is presenting at the IFSCC Congress 2026

Poster #1203 is presented by Chiara Spaggiari, R&D Scientist at Verel. It brings together four elements in a single study:

the chemical characterization of the extract;
in vitro tests;
the clinical study on skin;
the antimicrobial evaluation for the oral cavity.

The IFSCC is the international federation of societies of cosmetic chemists. Its congress brings together researchers and formulators from the global cosmetic industry.

Why bergamot leaves

Bergamot is cultivated for the essential oil in its peel and for its fruit. Annual pruning produces a constant quantity of leaves that previously had no purpose: they were left on the ground.

For an industry that must qualify its raw materials, this agricultural byproduct has three concrete characteristics:

it is available every year;
it has predictable volumes;
it has a flavonoid content documented in literature, which has never been utilized by the cosmetic industry until now.

Characterize first, decide later

The leaves are dried under controlled conditions. They are then processed using cold mechanical extraction technology with fluid-dynamic treatment of the botanical matrix. The process reduces the use of organic solvents and energy consumption.

The extract was mapped using high-resolution untargeted metabolomics: 191 molecular entities were annotated. Furthermore, flavonoids such as neoeriocitrin, hesperidin, and naringenin-related compounds were quantified.

Two distinct activity profiles emerged from this map, leading to two separate ingredients. It was this comprehensive characterization, conducted before choosing the application, that allowed the same biomass to be taken in two different directions.

Chemical characterization and in vitro testing were conducted in collaboration with the Department of Food and Drug Sciences at the University of Parma, a scientific partner of Verel.

BERGALUXE™: skin results

In vitro data

85% free radical inhibition, measured using the ABTS assay.
Up-regulation of SIRT1 gene expression, evaluated via q-PCR at concentrations between 1% and 3%.

In vivo clinical study

The study was conducted by an external laboratory on 30 Caucasian female volunteers aged 40 to 65. Participants were selected based on visible loss of elasticity and firmness and were divided into two groups of 15: one using the active product and one using a placebo.

The protocol involved applying a serum containing 2% BERGALUXE™ twice daily for 28 days. Instrumental evaluations were performed at baseline and at the end of the study using non-invasive bioengineering techniques.

+11.6% skin brightness, more than double the placebo. Measured using the gloss parameter with a CM-700D spectrophotometer.
+8.5% overall skin elasticity, more than double the placebo. Measured using the R2 parameter with a Cutometer® MPA 580.
−13.9% in the R0 parameter, representing a 3-fold improvement in skin firmness compared to the placebo.

All differences are statistically significant compared to the placebo. In the treated group, a significant 5.1% increase in dermal density compared to baseline was also detected, measured via high-frequency ultrasound.

BERGALUXE™ OC: oral cavity results

The second ingredient is developed for oral hygiene. It was evaluated in vitro, using the dilution-neutralization method, against two microorganisms involved in plaque formation and halitosis. Tested in its pure form, it yielded the following results:

Streptococcus mutans: log reduction greater than 4.79.
Fusobacterium nucleatum: log reduction greater than 4.72.

The effect appears after just 60 minutes of contact and is maintained at 4 and 24 hours. Survivor counts remain below the detection threshold.

What this means for brands, R&D, and private labels

Verel is a cosmetic CDMO (Contract Development and Manufacturing Organization). We develop and manufacture custom formulations and private label lines for brands and retailers in skincare, haircare, body care, and oral care.

In the case of bergamot, Verel oversees the entire chain that brings an agricultural raw material into a finished product:

biomass selection;
design, processing, and production of the active ingredient;
analytical characterization and in vitro studies;
clinical validation;
formula development and industrialization;
production.

In most cosmetic projects, these steps involve four or five different suppliers.

The engine of this chain is Verel's R&D laboratory: 500 m² where the proprietary active ingredients used in our clients' formulas are studied, developed, and produced. Each active ingredient reaches the market with its own dossier, covering everything from the extraction method to efficacy data.

When the characterization of a biomass is complete, a single raw material dossier can support projects in different categories. This means only one supply chain to qualify, one supplier to manage, and two markets to reach. For a brand developing both skincare and oral care, this is a measurable simplification.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is BERGALUXE™?
It is a proprietary cosmetic active ingredient from Verel, obtained from bergamot leaves. In a placebo-controlled clinical study on 30 volunteers, a 2% serum increased skin brightness by 11.6% and elasticity by 8.5% in 28 days.

What is the difference between BERGALUXE™ and BERGALUXE™ OC?
They originate from the same biomass but are two distinct ingredients: BERGALUXE™ for skincare and BERGALUXE™ OC for oral care. This separation stems from the two activity profiles identified through the metabolomic characterization of the extract.

What tests support BERGALUXE™ OC?
In vitro tests using the dilution-neutralization method. The log reduction is greater than 4.79 for Streptococcus mutans and 4.72 for Fusobacterium nucleatum, achieved within 60 minutes and maintained for up to 24 hours.

Who conducted the studies?
The chemical characterization and in vitro tests were carried out by Verel in collaboration with the Department of Food and Drug Sciences at the University of Parma. The clinical study was conducted by an external laboratory.

Can a brand incorporate these actives into their formulas?
Yes. Verel’s proprietary actives are available as ingredients, or as part of full-service and private-label development and manufacturing projects.